Cavitation is a phenomenon that occurs in various formats around us every day of our lives. In terms of fluid dynamics it can be described as the formation and collapse of cavities or bubbles in flowing liquids. Cavitation may well result in the pitting or erosion (wearing away) of solid surfaces, such as metal or concrete, that are in contact with the liquid.

 

Cavitation is often associated with components that rotate in a liquid, e.g. boat propellers, hydraulic oil pump elements and water pump impellers as shown on the right. Other common examples of cavitation are found in diesel engines with wet liners and where water is flowing over dam walls.

Surfaces in contact with a liquid undergo cavitation erosion or pitting due to pressure fluctuations in the surrounding liquid. In most instances the pressure fluctuations are generated by the movement of the surface itself. Following is a brief description of the cavitation process:

1. Bubbles in the liquid grow when pressure decreases.
2. Maximum bubble size at lowest pressure.
3. Reduction in bubble size when pressure increases.
4. Bubbles collapse (implode) when pressure is high enough.

 

 

The sudden volume contraction/collapse results in an energetic implosion accompanied by shock waves and high velocity microjets that impact and damage the solid surface.

Vapour cavities or air bubbles may be present in a liquid due to various reasons. In the following diagram a restriction in the suction (low pressure) line of a hydraulic system results in the formation of vapour bubbles in the oil. As the oil passes from the suction side of the pump to the delivery (high pressure) side, the bubbles implode.

The imploding bubbles create the shockwaves that erode the internal pump components. The shockwaves also cause pump vibration and noise. A high speed hydraulic pump that sounds as if it is full of rocks or gravel is a sign of cavitation, which can lead to complete pump failure if you do not track down the cause.

By preventing cavitation, you will increase the efficiency and lifespan of your hydraulic pumps significantly. Keep an eye on internal parts for signs of pitting and corrosion and listen to the pump to ensure you do not hear what sounds like marbles banging around. If you have any questions about cavitation email us at  info@bcl.co.za. Our lubricant experts will be happy to answer any questions you may have.

The crackle test was discussed briefly in OilChat #71 (Dipstick Oil Analysis). It is a quick and easy method to detect the presence of water in oil. To do a crackle test simply put a drop of oil on a hot surface with temperature just over 100⁰C. The oil will bubble, crackle or pop when moisture is present.

With practice, and together with keen eyes and ears, the crackle test can be a semi-quantitative estimate of the amount of moisture present in lubricating oil.  Water is one of the biggest enemies of lubricants and the warning limit for moisture in petrol and diesel engine oil is 0.2 % maximum. A moisture content as little to 0.05% can be detected with the test. Rather than just listening for the crackle, add a visual observation and rating of the number and size of the vapor bubbles produced. This will give an indication of the amount of moisture present in the oil. This method is referred to as the visual crackle test.

Success in using this procedure depends on practice and maintaining a constant hotplate temperature around 160°C. Place a homogenous drop of oil on the hot plate. To ensure a homogenous suspension of water in the oil, agitate the oil sample violently or take a dipstick sample when the engine is still hot. Observe and interpret the test result as follows:

Although the test is reliable in most instances, it does have some limitations:

• Hot plate temperatures above 160°C induce rapid evaporation that may be undetectable.
• The method does not measure the presence of chemically dissolved water.
• The presence of fuel and volatile solvents in the oil could be mistaken for water – indication of light hydrocarbons is a sizzling sound rather than a crackle.

There you have it – dipstick oil analysis in a few simple steps. Checking your engine oil level should never be the same again. Analysing the oil in your vehicle is like sending your blood to the lab for tests and engine oil analysis can provide clues about the health of your engine – without any invasive surgery. The real benefit of oil analysis is that it acts as an early warning system, alerting you of potential problems before they become an engine failure.

Once you have mastered the crackle test and the other oil tests discussed in OilChat #71 and #72 you should be competent to determine the condition of your oil as well as the health of your engine. If you have any questions about these tests email us at  info@bcl.co.za. Our lubricant experts will be happy to answer any questions you may have.

More than normal interest was generated by OilChat #71 (Dipstick Oil Analysis) – particularly the section about the blotter spot test – and it was suggested that we elaborate on the subject. The blotter spot engine oil test is cheap and easy and can tell you a great deal about the condition of the oil in your engine.

All you need for the blotter spot test is a piece of white blotting (chromatography) paper, obtainable from stationary suppliers. Whatman 3MM CHR paper with thickness 0.34mm is commonly used for the test.

To do the test, support the paper in a horizontal position so that the spot area is not in contact with any surface. The rim of a a cup or glass provides an ideal support. Take the dipstick from the engine while the oil is still hot and put a small drop of oil in the centre of the test paper. Allow the oil spot to dry. Drying may be accelerated by applying mild heat. An initial observation can be made when the oil spot is dry, but the best results are obtained after twenty-four hours.

The colour of the blotter spot will depend on the type of fuel being used. A petrol engine oil will have a brownish colour as shown on the right. Oil from a diesel engine will leave a grey to black spot (see far right).

 

The blotter spot has three zones. The significance of each zone is as follows:

Deposit Zone – indication of undispersed soot and dirt. Short service or low contamination/soot level will have a light discolouration or may not appear at all. Excessive service or high soot level will leave a dense, dark small spot.

Dispersion Zone – indicative of remaining dispersancy. Size of this zone is the important factor. The bigger it is, the more dispersancy remains.

Oil Zone – indication of oxidation. A progressive darkening from light straw to amber indicative   of increased oxidation.

 

Below are interpretations of seven typical engine oil spot tests:

Petrol engine oil with evenly dispersed, light coloured blotter spot – oil fit for further use.

 

Petrol engine oil with dense, dark blotter spot – oil heavily contaminated, drain oil as soon as possible.

 

Diesel engine oil with evenly dispersed, light coloured blotter spot – oil fit for further use.

 

Diesel engine oil with dense, dark deposit zone – oil heavily contaminated, dispersancy depleted, drain oil as soon as possible.

 

Petrol and diesel engine oil with dark center and distinct brownish coloured outer ring – oil severely oxidized, drain oil as soon as possible.

 

Soot ring around a yellow/brown centre – oil contaminated with antifreeze/glycol, drain oil as soon as  possible.

 

Dark center with surrounding rings – possible fuel dilution. Confirm with other tests discussed in OilChat 71 and drain oil if necessary.

 

Initially it may be difficult to interpret the blotter spot on the basis of a single test result, but as we all know practice makes perfect. Once you have mastered the art of the blotter spot, you will not be able to resist pulling the dipstick of your engine.

If you have any further questions regarding oil analyses phone 011 462 1829, email us at info@bcl.co.za or visit www.q8oils.co.za. Our lubricant experts are at your disposal and ready to provide you with advice and answer any questions you may have.

OilChat numbers 69 & 70 addressed the dangers of and possible reasons for engine oil level rising on the dipstick.  But your dipstick can tell you much more than the level of the oil in the engine.  Dipstick oil analysis may sound a bit farfetched, but in fact it can reveal a great deal about the condition of the oil, and even the engine itself.

During its working life inside the engine, motor oil gets contaminated with water, fuel, soot  and other contaminants. The oil is also subjected to chemical  changes,  such as additive depletion and oxidation. Dipstick engine oil analysis is quick, easy and cheap. Simply pull the dipstick out and check the oil as follows:

Water: Bubbles on the dipstick, a brownish residue just above the oil level or milky-brown oil with a thick consistency (high viscosity) are all indications of water in the oil. To confirm the presence of water do a crackle test by putting a drop of oil from the dipstick on a hot surface (temperature 100⁰C or more). The oil will bubble, crackle and pop when moisture is present. Check for white, sweet-smelling smoke coming from the tailpipe. This is a sign of coolant (water and glycol) in the oil.

Fuel: Oil on a dipstick that smells like petrol or diesel is the first sign of fuel dilution. Fuel dilution can reduce the viscosity of motor oil substantially. Another indication of fuel in the oil is when the oil bubbles and boils without a crackle when doing the crackle test.

Soot: Thick darkened oil on the dipstick as shown above, is a sure sign of excessive soot in the oil – diesel engine oil in particular. A carbonaceous odour is another indication of high soot levels in the oil.

Oxidation: When oil oxidises, its colour tends to darken. Badly oxidised oil usually has a  foul, pungent and burnt odour. Oxidised and contaminated oil will lose interfacial tension. A simple test for interfacial tension is to place a drop of oil from the dipstick on the surface of water. If the oil drop spreads out over the surface of the water (instead of clustering up like new oil) it may be time for an oil change.

Additive Depletion: If you are still not sure whether you should change the oil, you can do a blotter spot test to check the additive reserve/concentration of the oil. To do the blotter test,  place a small drop of oil on a piece of blotting (chromatography) paper. The paper should be elevated to avoid contact with the flat surface below. Allow at least one hour for the oil drop to spread out on the paper.

As the oil spreads out, it should carry with it the dark contaminants. Ideally the contaminant band should spread with the oil to leave a fairly even discoloration. When the oil is badly contaminated, the contaminants clump together and do not migrate with the oil front. This indicates that the dispersancy additive of the oil is depleted.

 

It is as simple as that. We trust you will now be competent to do your own dipstick oil analysis and that checking oil levels will never be the same again. If you have any further questions regarding oil analyses phone 011 462 1829, email us at info@bcl.co.za or visit www.q8oils.co.za. Our lubricant experts are at your disposal and ready to provide you with advice and answer any questions you may have.

In response to OilChat #69 (Overfilling Engine Oil) the question was asked if it is possible for the oil level to rise on the dipstick between services even if no oil was added to the engine. The answer is YES and the reason is that the oil may get contaminated with water, fuel or engine coolant.

Water:  As engines heat up and cool down condensation is formed. Some of the condensed water ends up in the engine oil, but normally condensation is not too much of an issue. Of more concern is the water formed during the combustion process in petrol and diesel engines.

For every litre of fuel burned in an engine, approximately one litre of water is formed in the combustion chamber. At operating temperature this is not a problem since the water goes out through the exhaust in vapour form (steam). When the engine is cold, however, some of the water gets past the piston rings into the oil sump. Water is one of the most destructive contaminants in lubricants. It attacks oil additives, causes rust and corrosion, induces base oil oxidation and reduces oil film strength.

Fuel:  Fuel dilution of the engine oil can occur due to several reasons, including internal leakage of the fuel injection system, dirty or faulty fuel injectors, extended periods of idling and frequent cold starts.

Internal leakage can be related to injector sealing ring failure and loose components. A dirty or faulty fuel injector will cause ‘dribbling’ of liquid fuel into the combustion chamber and it may end up in the crankcase where it dilutes the oil. An idling engine is not operating at optimum performance and leads to incomplete fuel combustion. Extended periods of idling result in unburned fuel getting past the rings and running down into the crankcase oil. Furthermore, during cold starts some of the atomised fuel comes into contact with the cold cylinder walls, condenses and ends up in the crankcase where it dilutes the oil. On the way down the fuel also washes the oil on the cylinder walls away, resulting in accelerated ring, piston and cylinder wear.

In addition fuel dilution of the oil in the crankcase results in premature depletion of the alkalinity of the oil (base number or TBN) that leads to loss of corrosion protection, deposit formation and degradation of the oil.

Engine Coolant: Glycol and water in the engine cooling system may enter an engine as a result of defective seals, blown head gaskets, cracked cylinder heads and corrosion damage. Glycol reacts with oil additives and reduces the  ability of the oil to protect engine components. Furthermore, less than 1% glycol contamination is enough to drop out soot dispersed in the oil, leading to sludge formation, restricted oil flow and blocked filters.

In OilChat 69 we discussed the dangers of too much oil in the crankcase and how it can ruin an engine. Not only will these contaminants raise the level of the oil in the crankcase, it may also damage the engine as discussed above. It is therefore in your own interest to check your engine oil level regularly and to ensure that it stays between the upper and lower limits on the dipstick.

If the oil level changes drastically in a relative short period of time you may have a serious problem. Do not start the engine and investigate as soon as possible. If you are not confident doing this yourself, you will need to get your vehicle towed to a mechanic or service centre – driving it could damage the engine, requiring expensive repairs. Whatever the cause of the high oil level, the condition needs to be corrected without delay.

Oil is the lifeblood of the engine in your vehicle. It lubricates the engine and protects against the two biggest enemies of any motor – friction and heat. The dipstick indicates the oil level in your engine, whether it be with two pinholes, the letters L and H (low and high), the words MIN/ADD and MAX/FULL, or simply an area of crosshatching. If the top of the oil streak is between the two marks or within the crosshatched area, the level is fine.

It is a well known fact that too little oil in the crankcase can lead to oil starvation and result in engine damage and possibly complete engine failure. Is more oil therefore always better? Correct? Wrong! If you drive your vehicle with the engine overfilled with oil, it is asking for trouble. Here is why:

Aerated Oil: When there is too much oil in the engine, the rotating crankshaft whips the oil up and mixes air into it. This causes the oil to be bubbly or frothy and the oil pump pickup-tube draws up aerated oil. Think of it as your engine turning cream into whipped cream. No one wants whipped oil lubricating their engine. The result is normally low oil pressure – ironic, isn’t  it?

Engine Oil Leaks: Too much oil can create excessive pressures inside the engine that will look for an escape – usually through gaskets and seals.  Head gaskets, crankshaft oil seals and valve cover gaskets are normally the first to fail. This will lead to oil leaks and costly repairs. Furthermore, if the oil seal on the flywheel end of the crankshaft goes,  the oil can contaminate and damage the clutch.

Blue Exhaust Smoke: When the crankshaft rotates in the engine oil, it splashes more than normal oil up into the cylinders. Some of the excessive oil ends up in the combustion chambers where it mixes with the fuel. Since the oil is heavier than the atomised fuel it fails to burn completely and goes out the exhaust as foul-smelling blue smoke.

Damaged Catalytic Converter:  The oily exhaust gases also coat the inside of the catalytic converter. When this happens, it is only a matter of time before the oil clogs the converter completely, causing it to overheat and fail.

Spark plug fouling ­– Excess oil in the combustion chamber may well foul up spark plugs, which will then need to be replaced.

Serious Engine Damage: Too much oil can create resistance against moving parts, such as  pistons and connecting rods. Excessive resistance will result in catastrophic engine failure, often beyond repair, and the engine will need to be replaced.

The moral of the story is too much oil can damage your engine. If you notice the oil level is too high, have some of it removed straight away to prevent these serious problems from occurring.

To find out more about the complete Blue Chip  grease portfolio phone 011 462 1829, email us at info@bcl.co.za  or visit www.bcl.co.za

0ver-greasing or under-greasing:
which is the bigger problem when it comes to bearing lubrication?

To answer this question, it is important to understand that over-greasing and under-greasing can refer to two different things. It may mean that the volume pumped into a bearing during a greasing service can be too much or too little. It can also mean that regreasing services are occurring too often or too seldom. It can be difficult to determine which is the bigger problem, but the following discussion should help you decide what might cause the most damage in your specific application

Over-greasing by applying too much grease to a bearing may result in seal failure. If there is no relief port on the bearing housing, the excess grease will blow past the seals and damage them. This can present several problems since the grease that remains in the housing can leak out. It also provides a path for external contaminants to enter the housing.

In addition, a bearing housing overfilled with grease can generate heat. A big difference between grease and oil is that grease cannot transfer heat away from the load zone. Too much grease in a bearing can create heat from fluid friction. Because the heat has nowhere to go, it can degrade the grease by causing too much churning. If there are proper purge points to relieve excess grease, the only problem with greasing too often is that you will be purging good grease out of the bearing.

Under-greasing or not putting enough grease into a bearing housing can be just as detrimental, but it has the opposite effect than over-greasing. By not providing enough lubrication for the bearing, heat can be generated by the friction between the moving parts. Also, if there is a void inside the bearing housing, it can allow contamination to enter the load zones, resulting in damage to the moving elements.

Not greasing often enough would generally be considered a bigger problem. After an extended period of time, the grease may harden as a result of oxidation. This will cause excessive component wear due to lack of lubrication and the presence of possible contaminants. The best practice would be to avoid both these conditions.

It is therefore essential to acquaint yourself with the greasing procedures recommended by your equipment manufacturer. If such recommendations are not available, the following guidelines can be used to establish suitable greasing frequencies and amounts:

FREQUENCY: The chart below shows approximate relubrication intervals. Start at the bottom and select the bearing speed; go straight up until you meet the curve that matches your bearing I.D. (or d); then go straight left to see the relubrication interval (in hours) for your particular bearing type (a, b or c):

AMOUNT:  To calculate the amount in grams, multiply OD in mm x Width in mm x 0.005

EXAMPLE: Let us say you have a 6209 ball bearing, running at 1,800 RPM, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.  A 6209 bearing has a shaft diameter (ID or d) of 45 mm, an OD of 85 mm, and a width of 19 mm.  Using the chart and the formula, the bearing needs 8 grams of grease every 10,000 hours.  If your grease gun delivers around 1.35 grams per stroke, the bearing needs 6 strokes every 13 months. You can also average it out to one stroke every 8 weeks.

To find out more about the complete Blue Chip  grease portfolio phone 011 462 1829, email us at info@bcl.co.za  or visit www.bcl.co.za

Hydraulic oil is the lifeblood of all hydraulic systems. It is therefore of utmost importance to use the correct hydraulic fluid. Equally important is the cleanliness of the fluid, particularly in mobile hydraulic systems such as those fitted to earthmoving and agricultural equipment. Ensuring hydraulic system cleanliness and contaminant-free fluids is essential to prevent damage and increase the life span of hydraulic systems. The wrong oil and contamination are the biggest enemies of hydraulic systems and are the cause of most hydraulic system failures. Even the smallest of particles can wreak havoc on hydraulic system components like seals and servo valves. Before we discuss how lubricants become contaminated with dirt particles, let us get familiar with the different types of failure that can occur if you fail to keep contaminants out.

Degradation Failure symptoms are sluggish operations, loss of system accuracy and speed, overheating and inability to build up full pressure. Essentially the system is not running as it was designed to do. Degradation failures often go undetected until damage is irreversible. To prevent degradation failure, adequate filtration for the system must be installed and maintained.

Transient Failure is caused by particles that briefly interfere with the function of a component. Often, this type of failure happens sporadically and goes unnoticed, although the consequences will become obvious with time. The particles lodge in critical clearances between matching parts, only to be washed away during the next operation cycle. As a result, components become less predictable and therefore unreliable.

Catastrophic Failure will sneak up on you with no warning and is irreversible in nature. Though not always the cause of catastrophic failure, lubricant contamination is often the culprit.  Large particles restrict moving parts and clog the very tight passageways found in a hydraulic system. Once these passageways become clogged, the system will not be able to operate.

SOURCES OF CONTAMINATION

Contamination can find its way into the oil in a variety of ways, which is why a comprehensive contamination control program is a must. The most common sources of contamination are:

Built-In Contamination: This type of contamination is especially difficult to avoid as it is the result of the manufacturing and assembling of the equipment. These particles include casting sand, machining debris, weld spatters, paint and pipe sealers, to name a few. To avoid the harmful effects of built-in contamination, flush system and components prior to assembly.

Ingressed Contamination: Mobile hydraulic systems are constantly being infiltrated with contaminants, especially in agricultural, construction and mining machinery. This is where selecting the correct filtration system for your application is particularly important.

Generated Contamination: Hard particles in the oil tend to generate wear particles. This phenomenon is known as three-body abrasion and occurs when particles between two surfaces scrape material off one or both surfaces. Other processes like rust, cavitation, corrosion, erosion, fatigue, and metallic contact between moving parts can also generate particles and add to the contamination that is already present in the system. Although these issues are not always avoidable, their impact can be reduced by proper filtration.

To ensure reliable mobile hydraulic system performance, it is important to do regular maintenance services, use a suitable filtration system, introduce an oil analysis program if possible at all and, last but not least, use the correct hydraulic fluid. To find out which hydraulic oil is best for your application phone 011 462 1829, email us at info@bcl.co.za or visit www.bcl.q8oils.co.za

The question Should I flush my engine? is often asked.

The short answer is it is very unlikely that your engine will ever need to be flushed if you change your oil regularly or as recommended by the manufacturer and use a good quality oil from a reputable supplier.

Whenever the words ‘Engine Flush’ are mentioned one can expect concern from many mechanics and automotive technicians. They will most likely recall horror stories about engine flushes that have gone terribly wrong resulting in engine damage and they will have good reasons why engine flushes should be avoided. They are right to feel this way as older methods of doing engine flushes were a high-risk gamble. You only did an engine flush as a last resort and performed it with utmost care when the engine had been so horribly neglected that there was no other choice in the matter.

An engine flush involves taking out some of the oil, adding a flushing additive, letting the engine idle for 10 to 15 minutes and then changing the engine oil and filter. Traditional engine flushes were formulated with a solvent and/or a strong detergent. The problem is that the chemicals in such flushing additives can damage engine seals, bearings, turbochargers and other oil-lubricated components. Volatile solvents may also ignite and even explode inside the engine.

Almost every vehicle manufacturer has released technical service bulletins or other documentation in which they warn against performing crankcase flushes. Not only is the service unnecessary, they say, but it can also damage your engine. If your vehicle is under warranty and you experience an engine failure, the servicing dealership will most probably ask you to produce your service records. If your maintenance receipts include a record of performing a crankcase flush, most manufacturers will deny the warranty claim.

It is true that sludge, varnish and other gunk can build up in neglected engines. Engine sludge is made up of oxidized motor oil, dirt, soot, water vapor, combustion gases and other contaminants. Proponents of engine flushes may show you photos of extreme engine sludge as depicted on the right. The fact is that no well maintained engine ever gets anywhere near this bad, and if it does, the damage is already done – the engine will be worn out and beyond repair.

If you are concerned about the condition of your engine the following symptoms may be an indication of the presence of sludge inside the engine:

• Noisy hydraulic lifters or valve tappets – metallic clicking sound
• Low oil pressure
• Oil warning light stays on
• The oil drains slowly when drain plug is removed
• Presence of dark greasy substance on the dipstick and inside oil filter

You can also check for the presence of sludge by shining a flashlight inside the engine. Simply remove the oil cap and use the flashlight to check for accumulated sludge inside the valve cover. In a normal engine all the components should be covered with oil, but you should still see the metallic parts glistening in the light. If you see thick tarry deposits inside the valve cover, you might be dealing with a serious case of engine sludge.

In defence of engine flush, we must add that the latest detergents used in some products available on the market provide a much safer way of eliminating contaminants from engines and avoid possible problems. Having said that, we must also stress that lubricant manufacturers blend their engine oils with specific additives to keep engines clean on the inside. High quality motor oils contain sufficient detergent and dispersant additives to take care of all those ghost riders inside engines.

While varnish and sludge can build up in a poorly maintained engine, this normally never happens when your oil changes are performed regularly. The vast majority of engines on the road are quite clean on the inside and will stay that way as long as their maintenance is kept up. Change your oil regularly, use a quality oil and filter and you will be just fine. Even if your engine has been a little neglected for a while, Q8 engine oils contain all the additives required to safely clean your engine during normal drain intervals.

To find out more about Q8 high quality engine oils phone 011 462 1829, email us at info@bcl.co.za  or visit www.bcl.q8oils.co.za

Pneumatic tools are used extensively in the mining, quarrying and construction industries. Pneumatic tools (also known as air tools)  are power tools driven by compressed air supplied by air compressors.  Air tools come in various shapes and sizes, ranging from small hand tools to jackhammers (paving breakers) and massive rig mounted units as shown on the right.

Air tools generate more power in relation to their weight than conventional power tools and they are amongst the most indestructible power tools available. Many of them, however, fail prematurely. One of the root causes for this is the use of incorrect or substandard lubricants.

Blue Chip offers a complete range of quality lubricants to keep your air tools and rock drills where they belong – in production. Included in the range are:

Compo air compressor oils are formulated to meet the most demanding requirements of both rotary and reciprocating compressors. The outstanding oxidation stability of the synthetic variants makes them ideal for air compressors operating at very high pressures and temperatures. Compo is available in all relevant viscosity grades which makes it suitable for a wide variety of applications.

Rockdrill Oil RD-C is a range of high quality lubricants designed for use in heavy duty rotary and percussion type pneumatic tools. The product line includes all universal viscosity grades making them fit for use in a vast selection of equipment and operating conditions.

Rockdrill Grease is a high performance, semi-fluid lubricant optimised for percussion-type air tools. It is particularly suitable for use as an in-line lubricant for rock drills in applications where operating conditions are severe. Rockdrill Grease extends equipment life, even in the presence of highly corrosive underground mine water.

Rockdrill Emulsion is an environmentally friendly, water-in-oil emulsion recommended for use in heavy duty pneumatic tools – rock drills in particular. Rockdrill Emulsion reduces misting to provide cleaner, safer working  conditions and improved operator comfort.

Drill Rod Grease RD-W300 is specifically designed for the lubrication and protection of rock drill drilling rods. It is formulated to control friction between the rod and the rock strata and thereby reducing rotational torque and vibration, resulting in improved productivity.

Rock drills are designed to take lots of ‘hammering’ but without proper lubrication they simply dont last. The Blue Chip rock drill product portfolio is formulated to lubricate and protect air-operated equipment effectively for extended periods of time.

For more information phone 011 462 1829, email us at info@bcl.co.za or visit www.bcl.q8oils.co.za. Our lubricant experts are at your disposal and ready to provide you with advice and answer any questions you may have.